Vincent Girard | 15 janvier 2020 Un surfeur unijambiste sur une bombe de 12 mètres à Nazaré SURF Le surfeur australien Ollie Dousset a pris une vague de 12 mètres sur le célèbre portugais de Nazaré. Un exploit pour celui qui a perdu sa jambe en 2018. Alors que les conditions de surf étaient parfaites ces derniers jours à Hossegor, c’était aussi le cas à Nazaré où les surfeurs de gros étaient en nombre à se retrouver sur le spot portugais. Parmi eux, l’Australien Ollie Dousset, qui a pris pour la première fois plusieurs bombes à la rame. Une prouesse pour celui qui a perdu une jambe le 11 août 2018 à Bali dans un accident de la route (il avait eu la jambe écrasé par un camion alors qu’il roulait à scooter). À Nazaré, Ollie Dousset a reçu l’aide de certains surfeurs sur place dont le double champion du monde Caio Vaz qui lui a prêté ses planches. Voir cette publication sur Instagram I set big intentions for 2020 and I was determined to let nothing hold me back 🦿… Today I surfed the mythical beast that is Nazare. And what a crazy first day it was…… . Massive thanks to my jet ski driver, safety man and undercover psycho @caiogebaravaz for lending me a board, whipping me in and keeping me safe out in the biggest playground of them all! I Can’t wait to see you push the limits of how big humans can surf in the future 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼 . Awesome day with all the crew, It was a pleasure meeting you all!!! Big waves expected over the next 10 days. Stay tuned to @tim_bonython_swellchasers for updates . Mental shot from the cliff by @anacatarinaphoto it was a pleasure meeting and hanging out with you! 🤙🏼 Une publication partagée par Ollie Dousset | Amputee (@olliedousset) le 9 Janv. 2020 à 1 :31 PST Voir cette publication sur Instagram It was an honour to be invited to surf in the @gigantesdenazare paddle contest today… an expression session of the some of the worlds best big wave surfers here in Nazare…. . It was also my first time paddle surfing nazare, Conditions were perfect with waves in the 15-25ft range with some rouge bomb sets…. Which landed on my head… twice. . This photo is from my first wave of the session, I was nervous and unsure if I could match it or even hold my own with the caliber of surfers in this event… So I planned to catch a wave as soon as I got off the JetSki…… I was the first person to catch and wave in the event and this was it. Literally 2 minutes after jumping off @lucaschumbo ski (Thankyou for the ride) . Today was undoubtedly one of the best big wave sessions I’ve ever had. I caught 8 waves today on a weapon on a board Loaned to my by @c.j.crooke 🙏🏻and surfed well. My cheeks hurt from Grinning ear to ear for the entire 3 hour session….Thank you to the event organisers, all the jet ski drivers and safety crew and all the fellow surfers. I have never felt such a welcoming and friendly community of incredible humans in my life. Thankyou to everyone 🙏🏻🤙🏼❤️ . Photo captured by the local legend @miguel_chaby 📸 Une publication partagée par Ollie Dousset | Amputee (@olliedousset) le 12 Janv. 2020 à 2 :35 PST Voir cette publication sur Instagram Some moments captured before my first surf at Nazare after flying in the night before, A last minute decision on less than 24 hours notice. . I had only towed into a handful of time’s in my life and never surfed a real tow board (they are Super heavy 12-15kgs)… nor had I done any tow surfing with straps since loosing my leg…. we didn’t know what was going to happen and if I was going to be able to do it…… Everyone was having second thoughts about going out there in such big conditions…. and were thinking of waiting for a smaller day….. . @caiogebaravaz quietly walked over next to me and asked me what I thought away from Everyone… I said I think that it’s pumping and a perfect day, some of the cleanest big waves I had ever seen… I want to surf. . . he said “Then let’s go!!!!” . So i put my canisters into my vest, put on my original big wave psyche up song on repeat (breathe – @hilltophoods ) and we headed down to the boat ramp to suit up and get out there. As we were getting ready I noticed Caio was wearing a moon boot; he was still recovering from a heavy injury at huge cloud break, where he ripped his hamstring off the bone and destroyed his leg…. so it was only fitting that two dudes with two good legs between us were heading out together…. we were both laughing as we were walking down the wharf to the jet ski. . I jumped on the back of the rope while we were still in the safety of the harbour and practiced a few rescue pick-ups and water launches to figure out how to get my prosthetic foot into the tow strap. The board felt good and fast….. Caio and I held hands and he ran me through the traditional prayer that they do before each session, which was very special. we were ready. 👊🏼 . 📸 @anacatarinaphoto Une publication partagée par Ollie Dousset | Amputee (@olliedousset) le 11 Janv. 2020 à 2 :01 PST